Five Native Ground Covers That Solve Difficult Garden Problems

Right, let's talk about those problem spots in your garden - the ones that make you sigh every time you look at them. The steep bank that's eroding. The dry patch under the tree where nothing grows. That slope you're terrified to mow. These aren't just eyesores; they're proper headaches, aren't they? But here's the brilliant news: native ground covers can transform these problem areas from garden nightmares into low-maintenance, attractive features. Let's work out which ground cover solves which problem.

The secret to success is matching the right plant to the specific problem. Not all ground covers handle slopes, drought, or shade equally. Choose wisely and you'll have thriving coverage that actually solves your issue rather than creating new maintenance demands.

Muehlenbeckia axillaris: The Slope Stabilizer

The problem it solves: Steep banks, erosion-prone slopes, areas too dangerous or difficult to mow

If you've got a slope that makes you nervous every time you attempt to mow it, Muehlenbeckia axillaris (creeping pōhuehue or creeping wire vine) is genuinely transformative. This native ground cover forms dense mats about 10cm high that spread steadily via creeping stems, and crucially, it develops extensive root systems that bind soil brilliantly.

Why it works: The stems root as they spread, creating a network that literally holds soil together. Once established, it forms such dense coverage that weeds struggle to penetrate, and soil erosion becomes virtually impossible. Rain simply runs through the foliage mat rather than washing soil away.

Growing conditions: Sun to part shade. Tolerates most soil types including quite poor, dry soils once established. Frost-hardy. Handles coastal conditions. It's remarkably adaptable - one of our most forgiving native ground covers.

Planting for slope coverage: Space plants 30-40cm apart across the slope. Plant in a triangular or diamond pattern rather than rows for more natural coverage. Within 12-18 months, plants will have met and formed continuous coverage. Initial watering is important - once or twice weekly until established - but after that, it's genuinely low maintenance.

Maintenance: Virtually none. Trim edges once or twice yearly if it's spreading beyond boundaries. Remove any weeds whilst plants are establishing, but once coverage is complete, weeding becomes unnecessary. No mowing, no feeding, no spraying. It's delightfully hands-off.

Additional benefits: Small white flowers in spring attract beneficial insects. The fine texture creates a soft, carpet-like appearance. Bronze autumn colour adds seasonal interest. Birds appreciate the dense coverage for ground-level shelter.

Potential drawbacks: It will spread indefinitely if not contained. Edges need occasional trimming to keep within boundaries. Some people find the fine texture too "busy" for formal gardens - it suits naturalistic styles better.

Best for: Slopes of any angle, erosion-prone banks, under trees (handles dry shade reasonably well), between stepping stones, cascading over walls. Anywhere you need soil stabilization with minimal maintenance.

Coprosma acerosa: The Drought-Proof Carpeter

The problem it solves: Hot, dry, exposed sites where little else survives; coastal gardens with salt spray and wind

Coprosma acerosa (sand coprosma) is an absolute champion for those harsh spots where most plants simply give up. This low-growing native (typically 10-15cm high) has tiny bronze-green needle-like foliage that forms dense mats, and it's genuinely one of our toughest native ground covers.

Why it works: Evolved on coastal sand dunes, it's adapted to extreme conditions - full exposure, salt spray, strong winds, and drought. The needle-like leaves minimize water loss whilst the spreading habit creates coverage that suppresses weeds brilliantly. Once established, it genuinely thrives on neglect.

Growing conditions: Full sun essential. Excellent drainage critical - it will rot in heavy, wet soils. Sandy, coastal, or well-drained soils are perfect. Tolerates salt spray, wind, frost, and extended drought. Basically, anywhere that's hot, dry, and exposed is ideal.

Planting for dry coverage: Improve drainage if needed (add sand or grit to heavy soils). Space plants 30-40cm apart. Water twice weekly for the first 6-8 weeks, then reduce to once weekly through the first summer. After that, natural rainfall should suffice in most areas. Mulching initially helps establishment but isn't essential long-term.

Maintenance: Minimal. No feeding required - it prefers lean conditions. No regular watering once established. Trim edges annually if spreading beyond boundaries. That's genuinely it. This is one of those "plant and forget" ground covers.

Additional benefits: Bronze-green colour intensifies in cold weather and full sun, providing year-round interest. The fine texture creates beautiful contrast with broad-leaved plants. Coastal tolerant means it works where many plants fail.

Potential drawbacks: Looks its best in full sun and dry conditions; in shade or moist sites, it becomes leggy and less dense. Slow to establish initially - patience required. Not suitable for areas with foot traffic.

Best for: Coastal gardens, hot exposed banks, dry sunny slopes, rockeries, around swimming pools (salt-tolerant), areas with sandy or free-draining soil. Perfect for low-water gardens or anywhere irrigation is impractical.

Pimelea prostrata: The Rockery Specialist

The problem it solves: Rockeries, gravel gardens, dry banks where traditional ground covers look too lush and out of place

Pimelea prostrata is a charming low-growing native (typically 5-10cm high) with small grey-green leaves and masses of tiny white flowers in summer. It's perfect for those drier, rockier spots where you want coverage that looks naturally at home rather than forced.

Why it works: Evolved in rocky, free-draining habitats, it's adapted to thin soils, excellent drainage, and dry conditions. The prostrate growth habit naturally hugs contours, looking like it belongs in rocky settings. Flowers are a genuine bonus, creating a white carpet in summer that native bees absolutely love.

Growing conditions: Full sun to light shade. Excellent drainage essential - it simply won't survive in heavy, wet soils. Prefers neutral to slightly alkaline soils (suits areas with limestone or where lime has been added). Frost-hardy once established. Tolerates coastal conditions reasonably well.

Planting for rockery coverage: Critical that drainage is excellent. In heavy soils, create raised mounds or add substantial gravel and sand. Space plants 20-30cm apart. Water regularly through the first summer - twice weekly. Once established, it's quite drought-tolerant but looks better with occasional summer watering in very dry areas.

Maintenance: Low. Remove spent flowers if you're feeling particular (not essential). Trim lightly after flowering to maintain compact growth. No feeding required. Ensure drainage remains good - problems usually arise from poor drainage rather than lack of care.

Additional benefits: White flowers in summer create a genuine display, particularly attractive to small native bees and flies. Grey-green foliage provides subtle colour year-round. Relatively fast-growing once established. The low height (5-10cm) makes it suitable for places where even 15cm is too tall.

Potential drawbacks: Requires excellent drainage - unsuitable for heavy clay or wet sites without substantial soil modification. More demanding than Muehlenbeckia or Coprosma acerosa in terms of drainage requirements. Can be short-lived (3-5 years) in less-than-ideal conditions.

Best for: Rockeries, gravel gardens, alpine-style plantings, dry banks with good drainage, between pavers or stepping stones, raised beds. Anywhere with excellent drainage and dry conditions.

Acaena microphylla: The Paver Planting Solution

The problem it solves: Spaces between pavers or stepping stones, areas requiring occasional light foot traffic, softening hard landscaping edges

Acaena microphylla (bidibidi or New Zealand burr) is a brilliant native ground cover for situations where you need something low (truly low - about 5cm), relatively tolerant of light foot traffic, and able to grow in confined spaces like paver gaps.

Why it works: The creeping stems root as they spread, allowing it to navigate between pavers and fill gaps effectively. Tolerates occasional foot traffic better than most ground covers - not a lawn alternative, but handling the odd footstep without drama. The bronze-copper foliage creates warm tones year-round, and red burrs in autumn add interest.

Growing conditions: Sun to part shade. Adaptable to most soil types as long as drainage is reasonable. Tolerates dry conditions once established but looks better with some moisture. Frost-hardy. Handles a wide range of conditions - genuinely unfussy.

Planting for paver gaps: Plant small divisions or seedlings directly into paver gaps. If gaps are particularly tight, use a screwdriver to make a hole, then tuck in small plants. Water regularly until established. Once growing strongly, plants spread via creeping stems, filling gaps naturally. Space larger plantings 15-20cm apart for quicker coverage.

Maintenance: Minimal. Trim edges occasionally if spreading too far. Remove burrs in autumn if you find them annoying (they stick to clothing and pet fur). Otherwise, leave it be. It's self-maintaining.

Additional benefits: Bronze-copper foliage provides year-round colour. Red burrs are attractive (even if slightly annoying). Creates a soft, natural look that softens hard paving beautifully. Native bees visit flowers.

Potential drawbacks: Burrs stick to socks, pet fur, and clothing in autumn - some people find this infuriating. Can be slightly invasive, spreading beyond intended areas if conditions suit. The creeping habit means it needs occasional edge control.

Best for: Between pavers or stepping stones, softening patio edges, pathways with light foot traffic, areas where you want living coverage rather than bare soil or gravel. Brilliant for making hard landscaping look more established and natural.

Libertia peregrinans: The Colour Provider

The problem it solves: Shady or partially shaded areas lacking colour, gaps in borders needing year-round interest, dull spots requiring brightening

Libertia peregrinans is slightly different from the previous ground covers - it's taller (typically 20-30cm) and forms clumps rather than carpeting, but it spreads steadily via runners to fill areas. The orange-bronze foliage that intensifies in cold weather provides genuinely stunning colour, making it perfect for problem spots that are simply... boring.

Why it works: Tolerates a wide range of light conditions from full sun to part shade, making it adaptable for various problem spots. The warm orange-bronze foliage provides year-round colour - not just seasonal interest. Spreads steadily to fill gaps without being aggressively invasive. White flowers in spring are a bonus. It's basically foolproof.

Growing conditions: Sun to part shade (colour is most intense in sun and cold weather). Adaptable to most soil types including quite dry conditions once established. Frost-hardy - actually looks better after frost when foliage colour intensifies. Handles poor soils and competition from tree roots reasonably well.

Planting for colour coverage: Space plants 30-40cm apart. They'll gradually spread to form colonies. In shady areas, plant slightly closer for quicker coverage. Water regularly through the first summer, but once established, they're remarkably drought-tolerant. Work well underplanted beneath trees or shrubs where their orange foliage brightens darker areas.

Maintenance: Very low. Remove old leaves in spring if you're feeling particular - new growth will cover them anyway. Divide clumps every 3-4 years if they're getting too large or to create new plants. Otherwise, leave them be. They're genuinely easy.

Additional benefits: Orange-bronze colour intensifies in cold weather - looks particularly stunning in winter. White flowers in spring add seasonal interest. Provides colour in both sun and shade situations. Fills gaps naturally through spreading.

Potential drawbacks: Taller than true ground covers (20-30cm), so not suitable where you need genuinely low coverage. Spreads steadily - may need occasional division to prevent over-spreading. Colour is less intense in very shady spots (becomes more green-orange rather than bright orange).

Best for: Brightening shady areas, filling gaps in borders, underplanting beneath trees or large shrubs, providing year-round colour in mixed plantings, transitional zones between lawn and borders. Anywhere needing colour without high maintenance.

Matching Ground Cover to Problem

For steep slopes and erosion: Muehlenbeckia axillaris. Its root system binds soil brilliantly, and dense growth prevents erosion.

For hot, dry, exposed sites: Coprosma acerosa. Genuinely thrives in tough conditions where other ground covers struggle.

For well-drained rockeries: Pimelea prostrata. Looks naturally at home amongst rocks and provides lovely flowering coverage.

For paver gaps and light foot traffic: Acaena microphylla. Low enough to grow between pavers and tolerates occasional footsteps.

For shady areas needing colour: Libertia peregrinans. Provides vibrant orange-bronze foliage even in part shade.

Establishing Ground Covers Successfully

Initial watering is crucial: All these ground covers are drought-tolerant once established, but "established" takes 6-18 months. Water regularly through the first summer - typically twice weekly. Skimp on watering during establishment and plants struggle to spread and cover properly.

Weed control during establishment: Remove weeds whilst ground covers are spreading. Once coverage is complete, weeding becomes minimal or unnecessary. The initial effort during establishment prevents ongoing maintenance issues.

Mulching considerations: Light mulching (3-5cm) helps retain moisture during establishment and suppresses weeds. Once ground covers are spreading actively, mulch becomes less important - the plants themselves become living mulch.

Spacing for coverage speed: Closer spacing means faster coverage but higher initial cost. Wider spacing is more economical but requires patience. For most situations, 30-40cm spacing balances cost and coverage speed reasonably well.

Edge definition: Define boundaries clearly from the beginning. Physical edges (pavers, steel, etc.) prevent ground covers spreading into lawn or other areas where they're not wanted. Containing spreading ground covers is much easier with defined edges from the start.

Your Problem-Solving Strategy

Identify your specific problem - erosion, drought, shade, whatever it is. Match that problem to the appropriate ground cover from the list above. Prepare the site properly (particularly drainage for Coprosma acerosa and Pimelea prostrata). Plant at appropriate spacing and commit to regular watering through the first summer.

Then be patient. Ground covers take time to establish and spread. By the second year, you'll have substantial coverage. By the third year, your problem area will be transformed into a low-maintenance feature requiring minimal attention.

Those problem spots that currently haunt you? They can become some of the easiest, lowest-maintenance areas of your entire garden. Native ground covers genuinely solve problems rather than creating new maintenance demands. That's rather brilliant, isn't it?